Denali, West Rib
05/06/2007, Talkeetna

Arrived in perfect weather to Talkeetna yesterday with the hopes of flying into base camp for Denali. The weather has come in and shut us down hard. Were still in Talkeetna, which in the grand scope of things has been fine. We've managed to sort food, go over technical systems, rest, eat, eat more and generally enjoy one anothers company.

Our team is myself, Austin Badeau as the assistant, Mike Glover and Jeff Kissell. the route is the West Rib of McKinley-a route I've been wanting to guide for a long time. It's technically more demanding than the West Buttress, a little more direct and something that will offer all of us plenty of excitment.

Were not scheduled to be off the peak for 3 weeks, so we still have plenty of time to sort things out with schedule and weather issues. In all it's been fun for me hanging out at the airport with all these great planes kicking around, watching them come and go, all bush planes, and all going deep into the Alaska Bush, it's great.

Were about to call it a day and sleep, something we all need before we climb. I'm probably not going to have much of a chance to do post while en-route, apologies in advance for that, but if I do get a moment we will.




I've thrown myself into rebuilding my garage, it will soon become our new gear storage area, and place for me to fianlly tune my own skis! It's been a blast, and great time as were in transitional weather at the moment. The new gear area will be a welcome addition.

We then begin building our kiosk for Pikes Peak which we place for the season the last weekend in April. Austin and I are also ramping up for Denali as well. All things considered it's been a fantastic spring so far and looking forward to warmer rock climbing conditions.


AMGA Ski Mountaineering exam done!
03/14/2007, North Cascades, Washington.

Just finished the AMGA Ski mountaineering exam with Christian Santellices of Jackson Hole Wyoming, we both passed.

The weather, snow conditions and terrain type made it one of the hardest, yet rewarding things I've ever been involved with.

The examiners Martin Volken and Jean Pavillard both of Switzerland gave us the good news yesterday. We both couldn't be happier, it was great to be done with that process.

Here is a picture of myself, Jean, Martin and Christian.

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